INTER VIEW WITH HEAD OF R&D DEPARMENT OF SARANTIS GROUP, GEORGE LIOSSATOS.
Where does the innovation of the Carroten AquaVelvet series lie?
Modern sunscreen products continuously break the distinctive boundaries between sunscreen and cosmetic products, adding more and more elements, in their efficacy and textures, from the broader category of dermocosmetics.
In addition to the multifunctionality of the compositions, they offer pioneering, light weighted, non-greasy textures that make the required, repetitive use pleasurable.
Sarantis Group’s Scientific Research and Development team has responded to the new challenge, utilizing state-of-the-art know-how, with the innovative proposals that global research brings to light, in all fields of sunscreens and cosmetics development.
They have developed the innovative Carroten AquaVelvet series that constitutes a new, multifunctional proposition, in the ultra-competitive sunscreen category.
The series combines Supreme Light Technology (UVB + UVA + IRA + VL), with the innovative hydrating combination, Moisture Balance System. Analytically it combines UVA / UVB (1: 3 balanced) filters, with active HEV light and IR (infrared) photoprotection ingredients, to enhance the defense against oxidative stress.
For the first time in mass market sunscreens, it introduces the combination of Hyaluronic Acid + Betaine, characterized by excellent moisturizing and regenerative properties, reducing the signs of photo-aging and oxidative stress. Furthermore, the antioxidant vitamins and β-carotene, contained in the formulations, complete the multi-level action of the product, while the textures of the series are extremely soft and light.
Sunscreens usually have full, thick textures. How did you manage to create Aquavelvet series, with such delicate and non-greasy textures?
Looking for something more in suncare protection, we are paying special attention to the caring sense dimension and the optimization of the texture of the product, which, based on new market trends, should be as smooth as possible, thin, pleasant to use, non-greasy, without compromising the integrity of sun protection.
An important role is played by the “balance” of the product ingredients, both in the oily and aqueous phase of the formula, and development experience is needed.
Why is the protection from both IR and VL radiation important, in addition to the necessary protection we have known so far, from UVA + UVB radiation?
UV radiation (ultraviolet) accounts for only about 6% of the total solar radiation, reaching the earth. The proper combination of sunscreen filters used in high-standard sunscreens, provides a high level of protection against UVA & UVB radiation.
Yet, a very large percentage, reaching about 42%, refers to the so-called IR (infrared radiation) and an even higher percentage of about 52% refers to the VL (visible radiation).
Skin damage caused by UVB irradiation (sunburn and increased risk of developing skin cancer and UVA (increase of production of free radicals, photo-ageing, dark spots formation) are well known.
In contrast, the negative effect of IRA and VL is emerging in recent years.
According to recent scientific research, IRA infrared radiation is directly associated with photo-ageing. It penetrates and reaches the deeper layers of the epidermis where, due to the increase in the rate of production of specific enzymes, the deconstruction of collagen and skin elastin fibers is accelerated.
Yet, another part of IRA radiation is transformed into heat that, as clinical studies have shown, chronic growth can lead to thermal ageing.
Visible radiation (VL) is associated with oxidative stress, which is responsible for premature ageing and continuous skin coloring (blotches) of the epidermis.
The Carroten AquaVelvet series is enriched with an award-winning biomimetic dipeptide that offers effective protection against the negative effects of IRA & VL radiation and contributes effectively to skin anti-aging.
What does hyaluronic acid offer to the skin?
Hyaluronic acid is a strategically important ingredient, because of its multiple applications in both cosmetics and bio-medicine.
It is a natural ingredient and is present in humans, distributed in many parts of the body (eyes, ligaments, heart valves, etc.), where it serves a variety of needs. 50% is found on the skin, helping to maintain youthful skin appearance, firmness, elasticity and skin consistency.
The production rate of Hyaluronic acid decreases with age. A significant decrease is also observed under the influence of exogenous factors such as sun, air pollution, smoking, etc., resulting in the skin losing its luminosity and elasticity.
It is therefore necessary that deep moisturizing formulations contain Hyaluronic Acid, which, depending on its molecular size, can penetrate even the deeper layers of the epidermis and restore its volume and firmness, by filling the wrinkles through.
In the Carroten series, to balance skin water, Hyaluronic acid combines with Betaine, an organic substance that retains water, but does not “trap” it. It maintains water balance in cells and protects cellular macromolecules from external influences.
How important is skin hydration after sun exposure?
Water is known to be the source of all life on the planet. It is vital to our body. Skin constitutes 70% of water, while epidermis 65%.
Without any doubt, hydration is the No. 1 criterion for choosing a cosmetic product, regardless of age and skin type. Maintaining water balance in the skin depends on many factors, exogenous and endogenous, such as air pollution, high temperature changes, air humidity, air conditioners as well as age, perspiration, stress. It greatly determines the healthy appearance of the skin, the feeling of comfort, softness and shine. The use of deep moisturizing products during sun exposure and afterwards is of great value, as it enhances the retention of water in the skin and balances the transdermal moisture loss, resulting in the skin retaining its luminosity and elasticity. It also helps to maintain tanning longer.
Tanning is usually desired by most. Can someone obtain a gradual and healthy tan, even when using high SPF?
Sunscreen products with a high SPF index protect to a high proportion of the harmful effects of solar radiation. The residual amount that reaches the epidermis is sufficient, to activate the natural skin protection process from sunlight, with melanin production by melanocytes and therefore resulting to natural tanning. The difference with the use of high SPF products is that you will tan slower, but the tan will last longer, especially when combined with After Sun products.
What are the ideal hours for sun exposure, so that we receive properly its beneficial properties for our body?
A general rule must be “not to be exposed for a long time to the sun, without adequate sun protection, not only during the summer months but also throughout the year.” Incorrect use of sunscreen products poses a threat to the health of the skin. Particularly in the summer, sunscreen products should be applied on dry skin, at least 30 minutes before sun exposure and in sufficient quantity. You need to reapply regularly, at least every 2 hours and definitely every time you get out of the water or sweat excessively. We avoid exposure to the sun from 10:00 a.m until 4:00 p.m.
Special attention should be given to babies under one year of age. In general, they should not be exposed to the sun. For children, we have to choose a high protection sunscreen, at least with SPF30 index.